Australia’s winemakers crushed 1.71MT of winegrapes in 2009, 7% less than in the previous year, the recently released annual vintage report by the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) has revealed. Following its survey of wineries in April to which more than 340 wineries responded, representing an estimated 89% of the industry’s winegrape intake, WFA reported the nation’s 2009 crush was below the five-year average of 1.79MT, but was still higher than estimated and greater than required to meet current demand.
Red winegrapes recorded a slightly larger decline than white, but still accounted for 52% of the total intake. The red intake fell 8% to 888,300t while white fell 5% to 817,700t.
Shiraz regained its position as Australia’s most popular variety for the first time since 2006, accounting for 23.6% of the total crush, compared with 23.4% for Chardonnay. This was despite the Shiraz intake declining 8% to 403,100t. Interestingly, the intake of Pinot Noir fell 35% to 28,000t, reflecting the challenging heat conditions in some premier Pinot Noir regions.
The intake of Chardonnay, Australia’s predominant white variety, declined 11% to 398,600t. Of greater note, however, was the growth of Sauvignon Blanc, which increased 3% to 63,300t (representing 4% of the total crush), and the even stronger showing by Pinot Gris and Grigio (up 38% to 40,500t), which moved ahead of Riesling (down 2% to 36,900t). Viognier also showed growth, rising 13% to 13,300t. The intake of Semillon dropped 20% to 76,900t but remains Australia’s second most-popular white variety.
Meanwhile, there have been reports of many thousands of tonnes of winegrapes being picked to the ground or left to rot on the vine, including in the Murray Valley, where a survey of the region’s growers suggested that more than 30,000t of fruit remained unsold and either dumped or left to rot (see story page 5).
With the release of WFA’s report of the 2009 crush, Australian Viticulture invited the nation’s regional grape and wine associations to describe the evolution and outcome of the 2008-09 season and vintage in their respective areas.
South Australia
Adelaide Hills
Growing season: The 2008-09 season started with budburst 10-14 days later than 2007-08. Soil moisture levels were good with better winter rains than the previous two years. Warm, dry conditions in September and October with adequate soil water levels resulted in strong spring growth. This increased temperature and growth rate resulting in flowering at or near similar times to 2008. Flowering was not as rapid as previous years due to lower December temperatures. These lower temperatures and rainfall near the end of flowering resulted in poor fruitset in red varieties, particularly Pinot Noir.
An extreme heatwave occurred in late January to early February. This heat required careful irrigation management and stretched irrigation systems. Berry damage was minimal as the majority of vineyards had not started veraison during the heatwave which meant the berries were more resilient to heat and water stress than post-veraison berries. Pest and disease levels were low. The vast majority of blocks remained free from disease. There were minor reports of powdery mildew infections in a very small number of blocks. There have been no reports of downy mildew infection despite heavy rainfall in December. There were very few and isolated frost events in the Adelaide Hills, with just a minor frost event in December, and no major losses. Minor late season rainfall events were conducive to botrytis development, however, the majority of blocks delivered clean fruit to the wineries.
Quality of the vintage was high with optimal ripening conditions of cool nights throughout February and March. Effective water management during the heatwave ensured vines had healthy canopies to ripen the fruit and the favourable weather during ripening produced grapes with good acid balance at maturity.
Vintage: Harvest began in mid-February of Pinot Noir for sparkling wines with the peak harvest period of Sauvignon Blanc intake occurring mid-March. Harvest of later-ripening red varieties began in late March and was completed by mid-late April. Lower temperatures than 2008 resulted in a much slower ripening period and allowed wineries to harvest blocks at optimal maturity. The timing and duration of harvest was later and more prolonged than the previous two years and more similar to 2005-06.
Yields and quality: Yields of white varieties (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris) were good and similar to previous years. Yields of red varieties were lower, particularly Pinot Noir which was greatly affected by poor weather conditions at fruitset resulting in small berries. Yield reductions of 30-50% were common in Pinot Noir with a 10-20% reduction in yield for other red varieties. Overall, yield in 2009 for the Adelaide Hills would be expected to be approximately 20% lower than 2008.
Warm days and cool nights have produced classic cool-climate wines with more herbaceous Sauvignon Blancs and more citrus characters in Chardonnay. Cooler ripening conditions have produced pure fruit characters with elements of spice and elegant tannins in red varieties such as Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. The smaller berries in Pinot Noir together with cooler ripening temperatures have produced wines with more colour and concentration than other years.
Barossa Valley
Growing season: Budburst in the Barossa was approximately two weeks later than the previous two seasons, indicating that phenology was on par with the timing of a normal season. The budburst was uneven for many varieties with much variation in ripening within and between bunches.
Climatic conditions were ideal for flowering and set with mild and calm weather, however, there was some shatter in Shiraz and Grenache. All the white and most red grape varieties in the Barossa had completed veraison by the last week of January. This coincided with the start of a two-week heatwave where maximum temperatures averaged 39oC and soared to 44oC on the Saturday at the end of the first week of February.
Harvest began during the heatwave, with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay ripening at a rapid pace. Exposed bunches from these earlier varieties were burnt severely due to the intense heat. Vines that did not receive adequate irrigation prior to the onset of the heatwave and/or were on heavier soil types became severely heat stressed with sunburnt fruit and defoliation.
Eden Valley suffered less damage across all varieties, with the timing of veraison later than the Barossa and the moderately cooler conditions resulted in healthy canopies. March and April were warm and mild and resulted in gradual ripening and excellent flavour development in the remaining red varieties in the Barossa and Eden Valley.
There was minimal disease throughout the Barossa. Isolated pockets of powdery mildew and lightbrown apple moth caused some damage, particularly in the Eden Valley.
Vintage: The 2009 vintage period began late in January, two weeks later than the previous two vintages. The ripening was initially rapid for the earlier varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, however, after the heatwave, ripening stalled and there was a lag period of about a week before the majority of the Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were harvested during mid-March. The remainder of the vintage was gradual with Shiraz in Eden Valley picked during the first week of April. Generally, the 2009 vintage was slow with lower yields harvested over a longer period.
Yields and quality: In the Barossa, the yields were generally low for Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Riesling, Semillon and earlier-ripening Shiraz blocks generally showed good intensity and quality across the region but some parcels had reduced flavour intensity and cooked characteristics as a result of the extreme hot weather.
Shiraz picked later in the season was of high quality with good flavour concentration, but also low yielding. Despite Cabernet Sauvignon having a reduced canopy size to previous years, the fruit showed excellent flavour development and has performed well this year.
Early picked Sauvignon Blanc from the Barossa showed excellent varietal character, while Viognier looked healthy in the vineyard; it was generally less varietal and lacking flavour this year. Grenache suffered minimally from the heatwave with exceptional canopies, full bunches and reasonable to large yields and have resulted in average quality wines.
The Eden Valley standout varieties were Riesling and Shiraz, with minimal heat damage, gradual ripening and generally low crop levels resulting in excellent quality this year. Chardonnay was very low yielding from this region and has performed very well in the winery, while Cabernet Sauvignon was reasonable in its crop levels, slow ripening and with concentrated flavours.
Clare
Growing season: The 2008-09 growing season got off to a more normal start than 2007-08 with budburst and flowering back to normal dates and relatively mild temperatures until Christmas. Disease pressure was low throughout most of the growing season with the only spike occurring after the 100mm of rainfall received mid-December, when there was a window of 10/10/24. However, this did not transpire into anything as there were no subsequent rainfall events. The New Year heatwave really gave the vines a hard time resulting in lots of exposed fruit getting burnt and crop losses. Fortuitously, the heatwave occurred at a stage when most vines were only early veraison. The effects could have been much worse without rain in December and/or if the heatwave’s timing had been much closer to picking.
Vintage: A small number of blocks came off early which was cause for some concern, however, things basically stopped for two weeks to catch-up from the heat. When picking started again it did so at a very steady pace. Most Clare people would agree that it was the most leisurely and steady vintage for some years, with little fruit being taken out of normal business hours. The leisurely pace meant vintage ran for probably an extra three to four weeks than the previous year (which was the shortest ever).
Yields and quality: Yields across the board were down on most varieties except Riesling which was per estimates or better and continues to amaze with its ability to stand-up in the heat. Local winemakers are predicting 2009 will prove to be another good year. Riesling continues to deliver and selected parcels of other fruit are very good too, but this largely is dependent on the block orientation and water supply.
Coonawarra
Growing season: Winter rainfall in 2008 was average giving good soil moisture levels for budburst in early spring. Conditions during spring were dry with minimal frost and no disease pressures allowing for excellent vine canopy development.
Prolonged flowering due to cloud and wind during November caused a noticeable decrease in fruitset in Cabernet Sauvigon and a corresponding drop in cropping levels. The vines' resilience was tested in January with four consecutive days of record hot temperatures, however, the healthy canopies shielded most varieties from any major damage. Vintage temperatures were slightly below average providing a long, slow ripening period for the reds.
Vintage: The 2009 vintage commenced later than recent years as a consequence of close-to-average temperatures during the growing season. The harvest started in mid-March and did not finish until early May, with winemakers keen to allow the grapes to hang on the vines to optimise colour, flavour and tannin development.
Yields and quality: Wines are showing great promise with intense varietal characters, deep colours and soft tannins. The white wines are showing excellent flavour profiles at lower alcohols. The reds are characterised by deep rich colours with Cabernet Sauvignon exhibiting good structure and varietal character and Shiraz showing rich peppery aromas and flavours. Merlots are exhibiting deep broody aromas and full body this season.
Currency Creek
Growing season: The 2009 growing season commenced with cool spring weather and, surprisingly, after average winter rainfall, very dry deeper soil profiles. While early spring growth was somewhat inhibited by cooler conditions, a warmer start to summer soon produced well-balanced canopies. Red varieties showed excellent fruitset and bunch numbers while white varieties other than Chardonnay exhibited below average bunch numbers.
Vintage: The unprecedented heatwave in the last 10 days of January brought the whites forward in fruit ripeness and resulted in a record early start for the sparkling varieties.
The maritime influence over the Currency Creek wine region leads to low average summer ripening temperatures, thereby making it a late-maturing district. Fortunately, this factor meant the later white varieties and the reds were just entering late veraison when the heatwave hit, resulting only in some vine stress while leaving the fruit relatively unaffected.
After this burst of early heat, the vintage did, in fact, return to ‘normal’. The perfect cool and dry early autumn and cold nights that followed created optimal fruit-ripening conditions, thereby allowing flavour development while holding the acid. These conditions enabled the later varietals, such as Merlot, Grenache and Petit Verdot, to be harvested up to three weeks after Easter.
Yields and quality: Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon ferments all looked outstanding with the best white varieties this year being Sauvignon Blanc (below average yield) and Chardonnay (above average yield).
Langhorne Creek
Growing season: The heat in late January/early February caused a brief scare with shades of the 2008 heatwave with some fruit damage and crop loss, however, being earlier in the season was in many ways a blessing compared with the onslaught the previous year. Following the heat, Langhorne Creek experienced a season somewhat reminiscent of the past: well paced with excellent conditions for ripening resulting in good flavour development and intensity. Given the prolonged restrictive water conditions in the district over several years now, growers managed their vines well through the heat with many showing a remarkable capacity to limit the damage to foliage and fruit and a good level of recovery given the resources at hand.
Vintage: Fruit for sparkling base kicked off vintage 2009 at the end of January. Vintage at Langhorne Creek was all but over in the week before Easter.
Yields and quality: White varieties fared well this year with good crop levels, sound flavour development and sugar levels. In general, yields for red varieties were markedly down across the region, particularly in blocks with lighter soil. Some fine Malbec and Grenache and wonderfully intense peppery parcels of Shiraz resulted from the 2009 vintage. It is widely considered that Cabernet Sauvignon performed remarkably well across the district with receipt of some outstanding quality reports and certainly some cause for excitement amongst winemakers.
The estimated total yield for the Langhorne Creek wine region is approximately 45-47,000t. The initial regional average yield estimates for the region’s major varieties, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, are 7.5t/ha and 9t/ha, respectively.
Overall, the 2009 Langhorne Creek winegrape harvest has been one of low yields but good quality and we look forward to the product of yet another eventful vintage.
Padthaway
Growing season: The 2008-09 growing season had 25% less rainfall than the long-term average (LTA), with the majority of rain falling in December. Prior to the December rains the actual rainfall was 70% below LTA. Average minimum and maximum temperatures were very close to LTA and the number of frost events was very minimal with only those areas that are reliably frosted being slightly damaged.
The low rainfall in November meant that there were no issues with flowering or fruitset.
Temperatures in November and December were average to slightly cool, providing good conditions for even ripening. The heatwave that carried through from late January into early February caused some problems, mainly with white varieties that could not stand-up to the intense daytime heat and the lack of cooling at night, but the majority of red varieties had passed through veraison and were able to continue ripening if they had an adequate canopy.
In mid-March, 20mm of rainfall fell in parts of Padthaway which pushed ripening and flavour development back by approximately two weeks but caused no real harm to the quality of the vintage.
Vintage: Vintage 2009 commenced in the second week of February which was similar to previous vintages in the region. With the rainfall in mid-March slowing ripening in some vineyards, the vintage did not conclude until the last week of April, two weeks later than average.
Yields and quality: Key regional varieties had mixed yield results this year. White varieties such as Chardonnay and Riesling had yields reduced by around 20% while Sauvignon Blanc yields were similar to LTA.
The region again produced some good quality Chardonnay, with the usual premium areas showing positive signs with good flavour development. Sauvignon Blanc is another variety which over the past couple of years is starting to show some good quality signs from this region. Red varieties also had a mixture of yield results with Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz only slightly down on LTA, and Merlot and Pinot Noir both slightly up on LTA.
The region is normally best known for its premium quality Shiraz production. However, this year the region is showing signs that Cabernet Sauvignon will be the standout variety with most growers reporting Cabernet results matching, if not better, than Shiraz. I suggest consumers keep a lookout for the Padthaway 2009 Cabernet Sauvignons as well as Shiraz and Chardonnay.
Riverland
Growing season: Season 2008-09 started dry and finished extremely dry in the Riverland. There were some useful rains in early November and mid-December. Temperatures from September through mid-January were perfect for the progress of the vines. Most vines were in good shape leading into the heatwave conditions that prevailed through the latter part of January and into early February. This improved the resilience of the vines during the period of extreme heat, in which maximum temperatures exceeded 35°C for 13 consecutive days (27 January-8 February). Budburst arrived in late August; from there the vines progressed well through to flowering in mid-October and veraison in late December/early January. Weather conditions prior to the heatwave had been ideal for colour and flavour development.
Vintage: The harvest was under way by mid-January with early white varieties and sparkling material making their way through the crushers. The onset of the extended heatwave slowed progress significantly. The region’s viticultural management capability had brought the vines through but they had to be nurtured in recovery; Baumés were slow to rise as a result. Needless to say, vintage was extended and winemakers were kept busy well past Easter.
Yields and quality: Despite the heat, quality is generally very good with some red varieties excelling. There were reports of some outstanding parcels of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. As expected, there was a significant variation in yield. Deteriorating terms of trade and depleted water resources are impacting individuals and industry.
Vintage '09 will go down as ‘trying but successful’, with the ability of the region to pull through an extreme heat event illustrating the inherent capability that resides in the Riverland and Australian wine industry.
Victoria
Ballarat
Growing season: Good, even budburst and ideal weather during flowering and fruitset were a feature of this years season. Some vineyards were troubled by late frosts and it was essential to apply the necessary powdery mildew sprays. The region experienced good December rains of 50-60mm which greatly assisted vine growth and crop development.
Vintage: After a very hot February, members were expecting another early beginning to vintage i.e. mid to late March as in previous years, but conditions were much milder during March, so vintage began first week of April finishing early May.
Yields and quality: Due to the lack of water (not able to finish-off crop), yields were again 30-40% below expectations. However, flavours and the condition of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were delightful. Hopefully this will result in promising 2009 wines.
Beechworth
Growing season: The growing season started with very low soil moisture. Most growers started with dams well below full capacity. Budburst was even and favourable weather allowed for good fruitset and a potential average to above average vintage. Three frost events occurred in the more susceptible vineyards but protection worked and no damage was recorded. Welcome rains in December (33mm on 12 December and 10mm on 17 December) and January (12mm on 11 January) helped and took the pressure off the limited supply of irrigation water.
The season changed at the end of January with eight days recorded above 40°C. Night temperatures also stayed high, well above 12°C with the highest night temperature being 27oC. Most of the vines shut down during this period.
Vintage: Vintage started first week in February for the early varieties at lower altitudes (350m) and ended in mid-April with the later varieties at higher altitudes (750m). Vintage started three to four weeks early for some growers, while for the higher elevated vineyards it started about one week early. Good March temperatures of 30-32°C maximum and 6-16°C minimum allowed for a good finish to what potentially could have been a tough vintage and we found vintage finished at a similar time to other years.
Yields and quality: Yields varied enormously. Some growers with early varieties on exposed sites with exposed fruit lost most of their fruit to sunburn and did not pick those varieties. There was a lot of berry shrivel reported and, in general, yields were below average. The later varieties coped best with Cabernet and Shiraz showing most potential.
Geelong
Growing season: Very little rain in winter and spring led to very small canopy growth in the early part of season. The flowering period was cool and windy with Shiraz suffering a very poor fruitset. Take out the excessive heat days from the averages (above 40°C) and the rest of the summer was marginally cooler than average. The heat caused lots of sunburn and leaf loss. We found flowering, fruitset and ripening to be very inconsistent. Where has the rain gone? We need a wet, wet winter!
It was a dry summer with hot periods in January, then a cool February and March with a longer-than-usual ripening season. Black Saturday had a big impact on the fruit, with damage reported across the region.
Vintage: Vintage harvest times and dates were more in line with pre-drought ‘normality’ with Chardonnay starting in mid- March and concluding with Shiraz by mid-April. However some whites were as early as February and some reds in May. We attribute the longer vintage to weather changes.
Yields and quality: Quality looks good with great reds showing good round, ripe flavours and structured mid-palates, with fine tannins to finish. While the whites look good, they display purity and linear structure, but lack richness and fruit weight, considering the low yields. They may yet surprise us. Yields were down across the region with about 60–70% being the ‘norm’. Varietal picks are Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Merlot which look really good. We had very low yields due to drought, but excellent quality fruit. Pinot Noir and Shiraz are this year’s standout varieties.
Goulburn Valley
Growing season: Sporadic but timely rain events in the Goulburn Valley late in 2008 ensured soil moisture conditions were adequate throughout flowering resulting in even fruitset across all varieties. Record maximum temperatures up to 46oC in the first week of February combined with furnace-like northerly winds which culminated in the devastating ‘Black Saturday’ bushfires across regional Victoria on 7 February. Temperatures were moderated for the balance of the ripening period but there was little rainfall to provide natural relief to heat-stressed vines.
Vintage: The unprecedented heat events following veraison provided a significant turning point in influencing vintage 2009 yield outcomes. All varieties suffered various levels of sunburn particularly on the western side of north-south oriented rows. Heat contributed to up to 30% of yield decline with the aromatic whites appearing to be the most susceptible.
Yields and quality: At early stages of vinification quality has ranged from very good to outstanding. There were early fears that the heat extremes may turn the 2009 vintage into a non-event, however, resultant quality has proved to be quite the opposite. Reds across the board are showing brilliant colour intensity with vibrancy and texture. Shiraz is consistently the standout variety and this can probably be attributed to its ability to withstand higher temperatures at critical growth periods. Whites, despite some loss through raisoning and dessication post-veraison, have held up exceptionally well despite acid levels being lower than normal.
Grampians
Growing season: The growing season was mainly mild and promised much. However, there were three critical times when the conditions weren’t so mild which had significant impacts on yield. Budburst was early and there were frosts that affected some vineyards in the district. Other than the frosts, the spring began with only what moisture was in the profile as the dry weather settled in for the duration – significant impact number one. Conditions returned to mild until flowering when the region experienced a cold snap to which Shiraz, our dominant variety, was most susceptible and various vineyards and properties were affected to varying degrees – significant impact number two. Conditions returned to mild again until late January and early February when south-eastern Australia suffered successive heatwaves. Fortunately, this region had not begun veraison and only fruit with westerly exposure really suffered. However, areas of vineyard that were already under moisture stress and did not have access to supplementary water also suffered leaf loss but this effect was not consistent throughout – significant impact number three. Conditions returned to mild one more time and remained that way through to harvest.
Vintage: Harvest occurred at close to ‘normal’ timing (what’s normal?); perhaps just slightly earlier due to the mild and dry conditions in spring. The harvest progressed in a more orderly manner than in 2008, and even 2007, which was a welcome change. I feel 2009 perhaps resembled the 2005 vintage for timing.
Yields and quality: Due to the three significant impacts mentioned above, i.e. dry and mild spring (some frosts), cold snap at flowering and heatwaves prior to veraison, grapevines were waging a war of attrition. Yields throughout the region varied by the degree to which they fell below the average, as much as 60% in many blocks and generally by 30% overall. Amazingly, and as has been the case many times this difficult decade, Riesling was a star performer, with very good acid retention and typical flavour expression. To date, all Shiraz in the region has performed well, exhibiting promising sugar-acid-flavour balance and little evidence of undesirable attributes. However, yields were well down. Some reports describe Shiraz quality as exceptional.
King Valley
Growing season: Budburst occurred mid to late September following the third consecutive dry winter where well below average rainfall was recorded throughout the valley. An extremely dry (<5mm) October was followed by above average rainfall in November and December which promoted shoot growth. Above average temperatures occurred from budburst to mid-November followed by slightly below average temperatures until late December. Flowering occurred in mid-November, and was longer than normal due to the cool conditions. January and February saw well above average temperatures coupled with very dry conditions which resulted in shoot growth cessation well before the onset of veraison in mid- January. The extended heatwave in late January/early February caused great concern. However, the knowledge gained from extensive canopy and water management trials and bunch zone temperature monitoring conducted over the past three years ensured that growers were fully prepared. Ample water applied prior to the heatwave together with good leaf cover over bunches resulted in minimal heat damage to the fruit. The February bushfires to the south and north were also a major concern for grapegrowers and winemakers alike. Fortunately, the high intensity/short duration nature of the smoke haze, as opposed to the high intensity/long duration nature of the 2006-07 bushfires, resulted in minimal smoke effect. Extensive grape and wine sampling was conducted in order to ensure that high quality King Valley grapes and wines were produced.
Vintage: Harvest commenced mid-February for sparkling whites, followed by table whites throughout March. Red varieties ripened in an orderly fashion with the last of the fruit being harvested in late April.
Yields and quality: Yields were average in both white and red varieties and ripening progressed well due to a higher leaf-area-to fruit-weight ratio and good leaf health. Despite the difficulties of the season, fruit quality was very good to excellent and winemakers are very pleased with the quality of the wines. Red varieties featured great colour, ripe flavours, soft juicy palate and ripe tannins, with Barbera, Sangiovese and Shiraz being real standouts. Some white varieties suffered a little but if consumed within the next couple of years they will be varietal and fuller-flavoured.
New South Wales
Cowra
Growing season: The season started out with rainfall being around about average (two inches per month) until the end of December '08. There were some problems with downy and powdery mildew. However, these were fairly isolated and dry heat in December and January cleared most of the problems provided they were not out of control.
About 10% of vineyards were affected by frost that occurred around 22 October. Some vineyards reported losses of up to 50% or even more. We also received sleet in early November which caused some damage to late-flowering varieties but those that were already through flowering avoided damage.
Temperatures were normal until some warm weather started in mid-January and continued through until mid-February. Varieties that ripened during the end of the warm conditions struggled as vines used more water, making watering hard to keep up. Fruit that was ripe for picking suffered during this period. Flavour development otherwise was moderate to excellent with some quality parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
Vintage: Vintage started in late January and concluded in early April. The start of the vintage was about two weeks ahead of normal but the warm conditions stopped the ripening of the later varieties and so these came in around the normal time.
The vintage was great (no rain – only 38mm between January and March) except for the heatwave in the middle. As most vineyards in the area have good access to water those with the better irrigation set-ups and lower crop yields were able to best handle the situation.
Yields and quality: Yields were down about 30% on the previous year (we did our bit for the over-supply!) Quality was good to excellent with red varieties being the standout for the year. The whites that came off before the heatwave are showing some fresh and varietal characters. Water was the key, plus trying to minimise the stress on the vines.
Mudgee
Growing season: Mudgee had a relative dry winter with good rains from September through to December 2008. This spring rain caused some concerns with regard to downy mildew outbreaks, but overall had a positive effect securing good moisture availability to all varieties and providing a very even budburst with good early canopy development. Frost damage was isolated to the lower parts of the district with damage extensive over the majority of affected vineyards, some of which lost up to 50% of the crop. Frost damage occurred in early November. Flowering was quite even across all varieties that were not frost-affected. The rain events had little effect on flowering and we achieved good even fruitset and berry development. Flowering in the frosted blocks was uneven which delayed harvest in some vineyards. Isolated hail events in late December and early January damaged less then 5% of the vineyards in the Mudgee district; yield losses were estimated at 5-40% over the affected vineyard area. The region’s whites ripened reasonably early over the majority of vineyards. Yields were, on average, lower, flavour development was early with Baumé slower to catch-up which led to some of these whites being picked on flavour and balance. The pH to TA balance was exceptional in the whites with none to minimal adjustments being required at the winery. Red varieties varied and flavours were again identified earlier than normal years with slow Baumé increases. The well-balanced vines with good canopy-to-crop balance ripened at a steady rate. Vines with lower canopy- areas-to-crop ratio stalled, which in some cases delayed harvest. Weather conditions generally were fine over harvest; periods of rain had minimal effect on maturity rate or disease. Heat overall was a non-event in the Mudgee region and generally had no effect on reducing the quality of fruit produced across the 2008-09 vintage.
Vintage: The 2008-09 vintage was back to an average period for the district. Budburst in the whites was 18 September through to 29 September for later whites. Cabernet and Shiraz had a budburst period of late September through to the first week of October. In many cases, Cabernet was more advanced than Shiraz at this early growth stage. Merlot was marginally behind the Shiraz with budburst completed by 17 October over most red vineyards in the district. Harvest started around 10 February with the majority of whites completed by the first week of March, other than a few later blocks located in the cooler, higher areas. Shiraz and Merlot commenced early March and the majority was completed by the first week of April. The Cabernet, in many cases, was being picked at the same time as the Shiraz and Merlot with some blocks still being picked into April. Harvest was completed by 26 April which was about 10-12 days earlier than in recent years.
Yields and quality: Yields on average were lower then the past two vintages in relation to non-frost-affected blocks. Chardonnay averaged an approximate 9t/ha. Semillon was lower across the majority of vineyards with approximatly 13.5t/ha. Bunch weights in both varieties were lighter with an even more uniform berry and bunch size which added to the good flavours and overall balance of the fruit. Shiraz was the surprise; bunch counts were quite high and early estimations predicted above average yields. The bunch size and weight overall was below district average with weight ranging on average 95-100g. Shiraz berries were very small and had developed early flavours and intense colours.
The Shiraz averaged an approximate 8.5t/ha. Merlot was marginally below average at approximately 9.5t/ha. Cabernet was more in line with traditional yields and averaged an approximate 10t/ha. The Cabernet was sensational with small berries and deep colour with early flavour development and has since developed into exceptional wines. Overall, the Mudgee region has experienced an above average vintage in relation to quality. All varieties are standouts with Chardonnay and Semillon the pick of the whites and Shiraz and Cabernet the pick of the reds.
In a sentence: Mudgee 2008-09 vintage was simply sensational in relation to the premium quality of both grape and wines produced.
Pericoota
Growing season: The 2009 vintage was difficult in Perricoota due to the heatwave in early February, causing significant crop losses from sunburn on many blocks. Low rainfall meant that disease pressure was low, but also meant more irrigation water was required.
Vintage: It was another short one, with the processing of Chardonnay starting in early February; we were finished by the end of March.
Yields and quality: Yields were looking good until the heatwave in early February. On average, crop losses were estimated at around 20%, however, some growers’ losses were much greater than this. The blocks that fared best were those with the biggest canopies. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon generally best survived the heat. Quality was variable across the region with many blocks producing good quality fruit. However, any young or light blocks were badly affected by sunburn.
Southern Highlands
Growing season: The 2008-09 season in the Southern Highlands was generally about average. Rainfall returned to long-term average levels, and the early January heatwave was very brief, and came later than southern regions, so did little damage to those who were prepared for it. Frost was not an issue early in the season, and timing of the critical stages was around the usual throughout the season. The New Year period with cold weather followed by (brief) extreme heat seemed to upset the usual relationships between varieties as to the beginning of veraison, but all evened out towards the end of the season. A December spell of damp weather caused some unexpected outbreaks of downy mildew, but normal control measures were successful in treating this.
Vintage: Again, no unusual timing this year, with most of the crop picked between mid-March and mid-April. Our normal cool, sunny autumn helped mature the late-ripening varieties, ensuring clean, good quality fruit at harvest. The only difficult situation arose with the fear of smoke damage from hazard reduction burning by local authorities whilst fruit was still on the vine. Close liaison with the Rural Fire Service and a rescheduling of potentially damaging burns averted any damage. A joint planning protocol is now being prepared for subsequent vintages so that our vignerons and Fire Authorities can co-operate over this important issue in the years ahead. This will ensure community safety whilst protecting our industry from unnecessary damage and losses.
Yields and quality: Yields were a little below average for most varieties with quality being excellent, and in some cases, exceptional. All in all, an average to average-plus year, with no major issues arising.
Tumbarumba
Growing season: Rainfall for the season was 906mm with good rains in early February. Budburst took place in mid-September with one major frost event occurring in October affecting some vineyards. An isolated hail event on 18 December also affected two vineyards. The majority of vineyards in Tumbarumba survived the heatwave with no detrimental effects on fruit quality, due to good canopy structure and water supply.
Vintage: With budburst occurring in mid-September, vines pushed away well with good strong growth. Flowering took place in early to mid-November. Harvest commenced on 18 February and was completed by 31 March. This was a relatively average season for the district with 30% of the fruit being processed for sparkling fruit and the balance for table wines.
Yields and quality: The total yield for the district was 1900t, with the average for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 12t/ha and 10t/ha, respectively. Standout varieties within the district were Chardonnay for both table and sparkling wine with citrus and melon flavours. Sauvignon Blanc was also of a high standard, producing wines of fine quality with good varietal characters. Pinot Noir was grown for both sparkling and table wine showing forest floor and berry flavours.
Western Australia
Swan District
Growing season: A very good growing season resulted in a steady ripening period with full flavours achieved. Good rains in September (76mm) and November (58mm) ensured good health for the vines. December was mild with an average maximum temperature of 28°C and 11mm of rainfall. There was no rainfall in January. Both February and March were marked by 7mm of rain. We experienced a small heatwave in mid-February while March was mild again with an average maximum temperature of 29oC. No frosts or storms were experienced in the region. These conditions were favourable for the production of both table wine and fortified styles.
Vintage: Vintage was on par with previous years. White varieties began coming off in the last few days of January with the fortifieds finishing in late March. Verdelho was the first to come off with Chardonnay following.
Yields and quality: Verdelho looked very good in the white wines which is important as it is considered the flagship white variety in the region. For reds, again, Shiraz is looking very good. Yields were down approximately 10-20% in general. Quality is outstanding.
Tasmania
Growing season: Tasmania’s 2009 vintage can be summed up as ‘quality, not quantity’. The unpredictable weather created some challenges and particular climatic factors limited the yield in all Tasmanian growing regions, but this has aided in producing fruit of exceptional quality and intensity.
October was very dry, but November recorded above average rainfall across the State. Growers have reported that vines carried just as many bunches as expected, but a combination of low soil moisture leading up to fruitset and cloudy, cool weather in December led to considerably fewer berries setting. Low soil moisture at fruitset was brought about by a dry winter and spring which in eastern and southern areas was often unable to be remedied completely with irrigation because of limited water availability.
The cool weather continued into January except at the very end when record high temperatures were reached over a period of four days. The generally cool weather (with cold nights) kept fruit and canopy development retarded. Thankfully, there was very little damage with the hot weather – mainland regions were not so fortunate.
January and most of February were dry with high rainfall at the end of February pushing that month’s total to near average. The low rainfall has helped produce smaller berries of concentrated flavour and also aided in reducing disease pressure. The late February boost to soil moisture was welcome and kept vines fresh for the task of ripening the smaller crop.
Berries were small this season (less than 1cm diameter), giving a high skin-to-pulp ratio. There were also fewer berries per bunch, enhancing fruit exposure and flavour and tannin development. Many berries also had only a single seed which, in such a small berry, made valuable room for pulp.
As dry, overcast weather is ideal for powdery mildew development the pressure from this disease was high this season. Growers were vigilant, though, and there were very few reports of negative impact on fruit quality. Botrytis (grey mould) was noted in Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris but was not severe. Noble rot conditions were excellent during vintage. Downy mildew was noted in March and April as a primary infection but had no impact on the vintage. Similarly, there was very little lightbrown apple moth damage. Mealybug was noted in some vineyards but was not an issue. All of these pests and diseases have a huge potential to damage yield and quality but with diligent management and luck with weather they are easily managed.
Vintage: Vintage 2009 was delayed at the start and finish by about two weeks by the long cool period in summer. The sudden onset of hot weather at the end of January was a bit of a shock to the vines but they were in very good condition and recovered quickly with minimal damage. The rest of the season was near perfect for ripening fruit. Fruit generally showed excellent flavour, concentration and acidity. Those who braved the elements and left fruit out for a late-harvest dessert wine were gifted with cool, foggy mornings, blowing-off to mild sunny days - just perfect for this style.
Yields and quality: There is no reliable data to quantify yields per variety. However, the data so far collected indicates that the yield was only 60% of the bumper harvest last vintage. This would equate to approximately 6000t, with Pinot Noir making up nearly half that figure, followed by Chardonnay with about one-quarter and then Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris comprising the majority of the rest.
Chardonnay is showing tremendous potential. Flavour concentration is great with high acidity and ageing potential for barrel-fermented wines. Riesling is, by all reports, a standout for the vintage. Elegant citrus notes and lifted floral aromas with tight acidity are the hallmarks. One producer went so far as saying it was potentially the best this decade. Other aromatic varieties followed a similar theme, displaying intense varietal characteristics but with reduced tonnage.
Pinot Noir at harvest had bunches of about 70-100g, which is a lot lighter than the long-term average of 140-170g. This corresponds to the reduction in yield on average of about 40%. The lighter bunches comprised smaller berries giving a loose bunch structure and greater exposure of skins to sunlight. The higher skin-to-pulp ratio allows strong skin contact during fermentation resulting in strong colour and flavour development in the wine.
